D.B.MANNOCK

Semi-scale WW1 61" wingspan biplane (With commentary by Denis Pitcher)

VARIATIONS

If you intend to fly 3 channel - rudder, elevator, throttle, then you will need 2" dihedral at the tip rib. If you go for 4 channel then only 1" is required. You will find it a very stable flyer either way.

If you want to secure the wings with rubber bands then drill holes at F44 for X" (6mm) dowels for bottom wing. Top wing bands are looped round ends of piano wire F32.

The alternative is to use wing bolts. The leading edge of the bottom wing centre section is left square & has a X" (6mm) dowel in it to locate through F11. The bolt goes through the trailing edge to the star nut on 12.

For the top wing, parts 32 are not required & are replaced by a 1/8" (3mm) ply platform as shown. The wing is slid backwards so that W17 locates as shown & is bolted through F34 at the rear. Cut the covering underneath to give access.

EXPLANATIONS

The position of the servos are shown - note the rudder servo is fitted UNDER the bearers while the elevator servo is on top. Closed loop cable is used for the rudder whilst the elevator top horn is on the port (left) side & lower horn on the starboard (right) side. Cable exits as shown. To assist in pulling the cables through after covering, push a long thin rod through the exit holes towards the servos. Attach the cables & pull through. A drinking straw is used at the top between 14 & 15 to help line up the other holes. Cut a slit in the covering at the exit point.

It is easier to pack the battery compartment with polystyrene foam BEFORE fitting the bottom. The battery can be wedged inside with a loop of string on it to help to pull it out.

The rear of the undercarriage is shown being held in place with two saddle clamps whilst rubber bands or shock cord are looped over dowel 44, passed round the front leg & back on to the dowel but clamps can be used at the front as well if desired.

A suitable engine would be in the range of 40 - 46 2 stroke or 52 four stroke.

RIGGING (See photo)

First drill one end of a strut & insert a split pin as shown. Hang it from a top hook, allowing it to pass down through the lower wing next to the bottom hook. This will show you the correct length so cut, drill & insert pin. When all have been cut & shaped put them in place.

The rigging was made from plastic covered fishing line. For the end X pieces, (approx. 12"long) & with the struts in place, make a small loop in one end & crimp it together. Pass it over the front bottom hook - up to the rear top hook, crimp another loop giving just enough tension to keep it straight. Repeat with the others. Remove the wires & struts from the bottom hooks then replace - wire first then strut & then cyano onto the end of the hook a piece of plastic tube to act as a retainer AFTER COVERING.

Now take another length of wire & make another loop, pass it over the front hook, up to (& through) a spring or band at the top rear cabane strut, taking it down to the rear bottom hook. Make another loop & pass it over the hook applying enough tension to hold it straight.

Next yet another loop, this time over the front top hook. Take it down to the fus., hook & spring & back up to the top rear hook & finish with another loop. Again the tension should be such that it holds the wire straight. Attaching these last holds the struts & top cross pieces in place.

By permanently attaching the wires to the springs/bands on the fus., you only have to pull off the loops to de-rig the main wires. The cross wires are permanently attached at the bottom & are released at the top.